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These people — men like Saeed — are the lucky ones.

"Ninety-five percent of gays in Iran will never come out," Saeed says over pasta at one of northern Tehran's coffee shops, where the atmosphere is relatively permissive.

Iran holds many surprises for visitors; like the climate which can fluctuate greatly, depending on the area and time of year, dispelling the long-held myth that Iran is nothing more than a vast, sweltering desert.

While some surprises are nice when travelling, it's important to be as well prepared as possible.

The people who live there are warm and eager to share their country and heritage with visitors and those who travel there are certain to leave a little richer from the experience.

Saeed was 20 years old when he sat his father down and told him he was gay.

| (/SUNE ENGEL RASMUSSEN) "The number one threat to gays and lesbians in Iran is the family," agrees Hossein Alizadeh of the International Gay & Lesbian Human Rights Commission (IGLHRC), and himself an Iranian.

A typical night out for the urban middle class by Tehran's Milad Tower.

"Names, details, everything." The Iranian authorities usually turn a blind eye to the gay community's escapades, but much like the intelligence services in the former Soviet Union, Iranian intelligence is believed to compile large files on many citizens, which they can use to build a legal case against people who might be caught engaging in political activities.

Often, this kind of compromising information is used to push gay people to inform on their fellow citizens.

This is one of the most blatantly unsubtle parties I have been to in Iran.

The host is an Iranian man in his mid-20s, whose parents let him use the villa when he wants, and he's throwing a birthday party for his European boyfriend.